I look up and see our new regular, who I’ll call John, standing near the front door. He’s been coming in three to four times a week for the past couple of months now, although he hovers like he’s never been in before, waiting for someone to notice him. We all do, but none of us greet him right away. Instead we mutter under our breath “John’s here,” “Your boyfriend’s here,” “Our friend is here,” “Who’s going to take him?” “It’s okay, I’ll do it,” “I’m not fucking waiting on him,” “He fell last time he was here…”
He stands looking sheepish in his pea coat and hipster glasses. Not a bad looking young man. Probably not even thirty years old. Finally one of us goes to him and takes him to a table. He likes to be in the back. His favorite table is table six, in the corner, but if that’s occupied, another table against the wall will do.
We give him a menu and a wine list.
He considers the wine list every time. He orders a bottle of pinot grigio every time. He offers his server a glass every time. We’ve all started taking one, mainly because he is a wildly inconsistent tipper (we’ll get to that later) and we thought perhaps that, as in some Myst-like video game, the secret to getting the $30 tip from him as opposed to the $3 tip from him was to take the glass of wine. This proved to be a false assumption on our part. Now we take the glass of wine because if we’re not going to get a decent tip out of him, we might as well get a buzz.
I have waited on him three times. I’ve never been one of the lucky ones, tip-wise. The first time, he left me $4. The second time he paid with a card and did not total or sign the slip, so I added a 20% tip. The third time he left me $3. His bill is always $72.30. He gets a bottle of pinot grigio and the same three courses every time, although, as with the wine list, he considers the menu as if it were new to him every time.
After he paid me with his credit card, I looked him up on the internet. He has a Facebook account. He has 105 friends. His profile picture is of him with what look like two strippers. They might be burlesque girls. Maybe he has the kinds of friends you have to pay.
He brings a deli container of roasted red peppers with him every time. Sometimes caponata too. He eats these with his food. He furtively places the container between his legs, and fishes down into it with his greasy fingers, shoving peppers into his mouth along with bites of our food. Olive oil drips down his chin. His eyes begin to glaze. If other people are sitting nearby, they notice. And comment to us afterward. He tears up pieces of bread like some kind of bird of prey.
One night Laura made eye contact with him as he was shoving a handful of peppers into his mouth and he froze and dropped them into his lap. On his nice pants. We don’t care if he brings roasted peppers in to eat with our food. He doesn’t need to hide it. But we don’t say anything to him about it.
When he leaves the floor is littered with napkins, bread crusts, and olive oil. He often leaves the container of peppers on the floor as well, as if he doesn’t want to be reminded of his shame. We used to follow him out and give them back to him. Until the night we were all leaving and found a container hidden behind one of the little bushes that flank the front door of the restaurant. Now we don’t chase after him with his peppers.
We do chase after him when he starts to leave halfway through his meal, or without paying his check, or paying only part of it, all of which he does pretty regularly.
He becomes the wrong kind of drunk every time. Incoherent, confused. His speech slurs, his eyes lose their focus. We think he must be on some kind of medication that he’s not supposed to mix with alcohol. He never finishes his bottle, never has probably more than two glasses out of it. Leaves the rest behind for us. If he were finishing that bottle we’d feel more justified in cutting him off. Cutting him loose. But to us, restaurant people, professional drinkers, it’s such a paltry amount of booze, it feels absurd to have to flag him.
I think about John more than I’d like. He takes up space in my brain. I think about him when I’m doing yoga. I think about adding the gratuity to his check. I tell people that this is what we should do. The people who have gotten the $30 tip from him (when he pays with a hundred dollar bill and leaves all the change) balk at this. The rest of us, who have only seen the 3 or 4 dollars from him, think it’s the right thing to do, if we’re going to let him keep coming.
The other night John got so loopy he fell on the sidewalk on the street. Laura and I came out and picked him up. Tried to get him to take a cab. He refused. After, I told Laura she was like Mary Magdalene washing Christ’s feet – on her knees in front of him picking up his caponata and roasted peppers strewn across the ground, putting them back in the paper bag he carries them in (he happened to have taken them with him when he left this time), placing them carefully back into his unsteady hands.
We found out that he was kicked out of our other location because of inappropriate, erratic behavior. We can’t bring ourselves to do it, at least not yet. We should have done it already. But as Dave says, “He’s human. He deserves some kindness.” But sometimes I wonder if he’s not human, if he’s haunting us, if we’ve been cursed, and if so, will we ever be free?